The Somerset Levels lie across
the neck of land that separates Devon and Cornwall from the rest of England.
Originally marshland, they were drained by monks in the Middle Ages and are now
used mainly for grazing cattle. They do still flood, most notably recently in the
winter of 2013-14 when the village of Muchelney was an island for several weeks
and the inhabitants had to go shopping by boat.
Thanks to the BBC for this map |
They aren’t startlingly pretty or dramatic
like other places in this country but I love them. I think this is because they
give the impression of being closer to their natural state than most British
countryside. There aren’t many houses, for obvious reasons, and keeping the
water out is a constant battle – involving sluices, pumps, sea defences, ditches
and dredging. It wouldn’t take long, one feels, for the area to revert.
Because the Levels are so different from hilly
and increasingly busy Devon, Frog and I often visit on our ‘days off’, having
lunch in Glastonbury with its delightful eccentric inhabitants and then
walking. One place we’ve never been able to walk however is a nature reserve
that we pass on the road as dogs aren’t allowed – until last week when Frog’s
recent retirement meant that we could go out on the dog’s day-care day.
Now at last, I thought, I could
experience the real wild Levels.
Somehow though I was disappointed.
Perhaps it was the fence around the edge
keeping out predators like foxes. Perhaps it was the quantities of serious birdwatchers with
their telephoto lenses. Perhaps it was the neat walkways and the signs
everywhere telling you what to look for.
I felt like a zoo animal, confined to
an artificial re-creation of my natural habitat.
Of course at the moment reserves
are vital for preserving species, but I can’t wait for the day (which has to come) when the
countryside is reversed, when wildness is the norm and reserves are where we
grow our food. (For more on this see https://www.rewildingbritain.org.uk/ .)
We started off at the reed bed.
The swishing noise of the wind through the reeds was lovely.
The reed walk |
Then we walked past some ditches and pools.
A secret willow-fringed pool |
Purple loosestrife, a damp-loving plant |
I had to look up this butterfly when I got home as I don't know much about butterflies - and I think it's a painted lady. I knew the plant however. It's hemp agrimony - another damp-lover. |
Then we sat on a floating platform on the edge of a small lake which reminded me of the Norfolk Broads. (I had difficulty taking photographs because the sun was so high and strong that all I could see on the screen was myself. The picture below may be slightly wonky.)
The small lake |
At one point we had to cross a track or ‘drove road’ as they’re called on the Levels. Drove roads look inviting but they aren’t public footpaths and are often blocked with gates,
barbed wire and ‘private’ notices. True to form there was a big notice here
warning visitors to cross quickly and not stray up the track - for their own
safety and that of the cattle driven along it. Hmph.
The out-of-bounds drove road |
We ended up at the bird hide and
information hut. As I read the board, I noticed movement above. Oh how clever, I
thought: there’s a moving exhibit. When I looked up I realised that it wasn’t just moving. It was alive.
And, judging by the amount of droppings on the floor, had made the hut its own.
But it wasn't an endangered species, and it certainly wasn't on the board's list of creatures to look out for.
That's real nature for you, I thought - it doesn't follow the rules.
But it wasn't an endangered species, and it certainly wasn't on the board's list of creatures to look out for.
That's real nature for you, I thought - it doesn't follow the rules.
It was the best bit of the walk.
The anomalous pigeon |
"Purple loosestrife, agrimony, painted lady, willow-fringed pool, reed bed,drove road...where wildness is the norm." Wonderful names. What a magical picture you paint with your words so full of passion and longing and humour for our lost countryside ...and fabulous photos - the butterfly and agrimony not wonky at all. You make me want to go and visit it myself. Thank you - a lovely inspiring post.
ReplyDeleteRobin and I always used to have lunch at Rainbows End in Glastonbury but I've recently discovered Excalibur further up the hill - mostly vegan - interesting drinks too - if you are into that! xx
Dear Trish - thank you so much. You read more into the blog than I realise is there. And there was me admiring your blog so much and wishing I could be that honest and personal. We don't know what we're giving away when we write! We love the Rainbows End cafe too - it has such a friendly atmosphere and a courtyard at the back where can sit with the dog. But maybe we should branch out and try some other places. The nature Reserve is called Greylake, run by the RSPB. On the road that runs through Othery and past Burrow Mump. xx
ReplyDeleteDear Belinda....I love the way you write because it is personal to you....it's such a temptation isn't it to try and write like someone else....I'd like to be Mary Oliver...but alas not to be! Finding our own voices and trusting them is the art of it...and you have helped me so much over the years to be more confident in mine - thank you.
ReplyDeleteAnd thanks for Greylake - I will squirrel it away for a day when wildness calls .Xx
Which reserve is this, Belinda? There are some lovely accessible drove roads through the Avalon Marshes.
ReplyDeleteThe reserve is Greylake near Burrow Mump. Thank you so much for the tip about the Avalon Marshes. We will investigate them.
ReplyDelete